My Bloom Perfumery October sample pack arrived yesterday. This month the focus is on #ExploringLabdanum. Labdanum is a rich brown gum resin that's sourced from the cistus shrubs of rockrose. It helps to anchor and extend the impact of more fleeting notes.
"A key ingredient in any amber based perfume, labdanum is a truly multifaceted thing. Both the spice and sweetness it's honeyed and still enriched with oriental elements. It smells truly exotic yet comfortingly familiar. It's leathery and yet woody at the same time conjuring up ideas of far flung luxury as much as it does dusty carpenter's workshops and bustling shipyards".
Bloom Perfumery have included a sample of labdanum absolute so it can help subscribers identify the ingredients wholly unique properties. The perfumes this month are:
Paradis Perdu by Frapin EdP (100ml - £98, 1ml - £2) - is aromatic and woody with top notes of bergamot, lemon, grapefruit and mandarin with green notes of basil, elemi and galbanum. Hay and labdanum combine with moss and rosewood.
Panorama by Olfactive Studio EdP (100ml - £108, 50ml - £74, 1ml - £2) - this is a very green perfume. The labdanum adds a spicy note. With top notes of bamboo shoots, bergamot, fig tree leaves, tonka bean and vanilla a heart of cardamon, galbanum, cut grass and violet leaf with a base of fir balsam, labdanum, musk, myrrh, patchouli, tonka bean and vanilla.
Signature Wild by Art de Parfum Extrait de Parfum (50ml - £88, 1ml - £2) - the labdanum is buried between the layers. It has a woody and slightly masculine edge. With notes of leather accord, orange blossom, cinnamon, cardamon, orange flower absolute, ciste labdanum, davana, peru balsam and vetiver.
Sable Marocain by Phaedon EdP (100ml - £95, 1ml - £2) - opens with Moroccan labdanum with a sweet cocoa note. Ginger and balsamic notes help to avoid too much sweetness. With notes of cocoa, copahu balm, gaiac wood, ginger, labdanum and vetiver.
Saffron Rose by Grossmith EdP (100ml - £295, 50ml - 195, 1ml - £5) - this is the perfume you don't want to like too much ouch that price! It is really lovely and one of my favourites this month. Labdanum is used alongside the oud, myrrh and castoreum which provides an animalic note which "makes the rose smell dirtier and more realistic".
The final sample this month is by one of my favourite perfume houses. Just Landed: Fathom V by BeauFort London EdP (50ml - £95, 1ml - £2) "The idea of this ’sea-change’ and the constant tidal flux of the sea is properly explored in Fathom V with the overdosed use of contrasting materials: salt and earth, fragrant herbs and mosses, pleasant floral notes and intense dark spices encompassing and outlining the push and pull of the oceanic torrents".
It has top notes of juniper berry, tangerine, blackcurrant, green leaf and earth with a heart of thyme, lily, jasmine, ylang ylang, ginger, cumin, black pepper and mimosa with a base of patchouli, vetiver, moss, salt, frankincense, atlas cedar and amber. Rather in love with this one!
Are you liking the sound of any of the perfumes in this month's selection?