Showing posts with label Zoologist. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Zoologist. Show all posts

Saturday, 29 April 2017

Bloom Perfumery: Yearly Sample Pack April 2017: Violets

I was very happy indeed to receive my Bloom Perfumery sample pack for April. (I loved last month's Green scents and February's Vanilla picks). This month's theme is violets.


Bloom Perfumery are "showcasing the use of violet leaf absolute, a natural material derived from the plant, as well as violet flower aroma interpretations: from bon-bon candied petals to aroma derived through the 18th century enfleurage technique".

There is one perfume we've had before in the pack from last June - Bendelirious EdP (50ml - £82) (violet leaf absolute) from Etat Libre d'Orange where two roots (iris and violet) are used to create the sweetest of leathers. With notes of champagne, cherry, cherry lollipop, grapefruit, iris absolu, iris butter, leather, musk, tonka beans, vetiver and violet leaf absolute.

I simply love the very gorgeous Violet Disguise EdP from Imaginary Authors (50ml - £90, 1ml - £2) (bon-bon violet flower interpretation) which is the scent of "violet flowers aroma as we know it from candied purple sweets and violet petal jam". "This is a versatile fragrance which will remind you of the simpler joys in life". With notes of plum, violet, dried fruits, balsam and amber.

From Zoologist there is Nightingale EdP (60ml - £135, 1ml - £3) (violets bouquet aroma) a "subtle linear floral beading sweet flowers one by one: violets, plum blossom and rose and stitching them onto a sensual sandalwood-ambegis canvas". With top notes of bergamot, lemon and saffron, a heart of japanese plum blossom, red rose and violet with a base of oud, patchouli, sandalwood, moss, frankincense, white musk, labdanum and ambergris.

Aleksandr EdP by Arquiste EdP (100ml - £135, 1ml - £2) (violet leaf absolute) "a witty reference to 19th century formula when dandies would use violet water to moisturize the skin. Violet leaf absolute smells green, leathery and a touch earthy on its own but in a formula can provide a perfect lasting deep background for lighter notes". With top notes of neroli, aldehydes, iced vodka accord and birch leaves, a heart of violet leaf, orris, cognac and leather with a base of fir balsam, birch tar, moss and animalic musk accord.

Sideshow by Gri Gri is New In EdP (can't see it online right now) and the "perfumes are inspired by some tattoo technique. Sideshow is based on the 'old-shool' anchors and mermaids, romantic, colourful and a bit kitch". The initial scent is surprisingly bubblegum (really!) with a heart of cotton candy and candy apple. Base notes are hyraceum, tolu balsam and leather.

The final scent this month is Queen of Spades by Brocard EdP (100ml - £21, 50ml - £17.50, 1ml - £2) (violet petals jam aroma) "sweet like violet petals jam, the fragrance has a plump floral core of magnolia, jasmin, lily-of-the-valley, violet and orchid" along with musk and woods.

Wednesday, 29 March 2017

Bloom Perfumery: Yearly Sample Pack March 2017: Green

I have to say straight up front - I think this has been my favourite month ever! (I actually love all the scents included this month). "In the first month of Spring we explore the phenomenon green (cut grass and leaves) in perfume and how perfumers go about instilling it in a formula".


Inside the pack this month:

Zoologist Hummingbird EdP (60ml - £125, 1ml - £3)  which is designed to make you "think of a tropical forest and it's lush green vegetation". It has a high level of coumarin which smells of warm hay with green smelling florals. With top notes of apple, cherry, citrus, lilac, muget, plum, rose and violet leaf. A heart of honey, honeysuckle, mimosa, peony, tulip and ylang ylang with a base of amber, coumarin, cream, moss, musks, sandalwood and white woods. 

Huitième Art Aube Pashmina EdP (50ml - £88, 1ml - £2) which is "a straightforward green with a note of tomato leaves propped up by a geranium-basil mix". With notes of basil, currant leaves, geranium, rosemary, satinwood and tomato leaves. This is really fresh with a fruity edge.

.vero.profumo. Mito EdP (50ml - £138, 1ml - £5) which is the "perfect perfume to learn how galbanum smells". "French perfumers call this resin "runner bean in a shoe" - green beans and leather.  Bloom Perfumery say to compare this with Aube Pashmina (synthetic green - tomato leaf) "compared to a carefully built up green created from combining natural materials with a green nuance". With top notes of green leaves a heart of champaca, magnolia grandiflora and tuberose and a base of galbanum and hyacinth.

PG16.1 Bois Naufragé EdP (50ml - £81.50, 1ml - £2) which is new in (a reintroduction) which is formulated with a note of mock fig (carob) which is sweet and leafy. With a top note of fig of Egypt (carob tree), a heart of sea salt and a base of vetiver fraction and ambergris.

Baruti Melkmeisje Extrait de Parfum (30ml - £98, 1ml - £5) which is built around linden absolute (a rare and expensive material). A green floral with powder and honey notes. With notes of honey, iris butter, lilac, linden, musk, pear, sandalwood, vanilla and vetiver.

The final pick this month is by Bloom Bespoke Lab KisKis EdT (50ml - £69.99, 1ml - £2) which is Bloom's own experiment "the fruity green nuance has been created from combining blackcurrant leaves, cucumber and apple accord". With notes of amber, sage, cucumber, granny smith apples, oakmoss, rose, vanilla, blackcurrant leaves, jasmine and raindrops.

Have you tried any of these perfumes? As I said, this month goes down as one of my favourites over the two years of my subscription (I could easily have them all full size - if only!) You also get a code for 10% off any of the bottles this month.

Saturday, 4 March 2017

Bloom Perfumery: Yearly Sample Pack: February 2017 - Vanilla Et Co

My February Bloom Perfumery sample pack arrived on Thursday and in February we were exploring Vanilla, it's alternatives and materials closely related to it.


I love that we are also sent raw material samples to be able to identify the different forms of Vanilla - Coumarin, Vanillin, Full on real Vanilla, Ethyl Maltol, Tonka Beans and Heliotropin.

There are 3 samples this month that I've had in other sample packs previously. Two which I wasn't keen on but one which I adore - TARDES by Carner EdP (£85 - 50ml) which I received in my very first sample pack in July '15 - see my thoughts on it HERE. I still love it, so it will be a purchase soon!

I like new in: Parfumerie Generale's L'Ombre Fauve EdP (£81.50 - 50ml) which is a re-introduced formula. It's an amber composition and naturally has vanilla in it. With top notes of red amber, a heart of civet chevrone with a base of precious woods. Also from the same house is PG21 Felanilla EdP (£81.50 - 50ml) which is made with two varieties of real vanilla and is absolutely beautiful. It has top notes of saffron and vanilla (Bourbon and Taihitian), a heart of hay and iris absolute with a base of amber.

The other two that have been in previous sample pack are Brocard's Modern Classic EdP which uses Ethyl maltol (£17 - 50ml) and has notes of pear, praline, blackcurrant, white musk, orange blossom, vanilla and ethyl maltol and Angela Ciampagna's Liquo EdP (£95 - 50ml) which has top notes of lavandin, violet and lemon with a heart of anise, licorice, straw and coumarin with a base of frankincense, vetiver and tonka beans.

Civet by Zoologist EdP (£125 - 60ml) is from a new brand at Bloom Perfumery. It has top notes of bergamot, black pepper, lemon, orange and tarragon with a heart of carnation, frangipani, heliotrope, hyacinth, linden, tuberose and ylang ylang with a base of civet, coffee, frankincense, labdanum, musk and vanillin.

The final perfume (there are 7 this month!) is Aphrodisia by Brocard EdP (£26 - 75ml) which has top notes of bergamot and cassis, a heart of jasmine, rosewood and ylang ylang with a base of heliotrope, heliotrophin, musk and vanilla.

What do you think of February's choices?