Friday, 6 January 2017

Bloom Perfumery: Yearly Sample Pack: December 2016: Exploring Benzoin

My December Bloom Perfumery Yearly Sample Pack arrived on Wednesday. In December, we were Exploring Benzoin.

"Benzoin is a rich gum resin obtained from the bark of a group of trees called styrax that smells sweet and smooth like vanilla. An excellent fixative, including Benzoin in a composition helps slow the dispersion of other aroma molecules and materials and as a result it's used a lot in perfumery as well as in the production of incense and medicine for its antiseptic properties".

"A material with oodles of depth, benzoin has many facets". It can smells sweet, smokey, rich, like incense, gourmand and balsamic.  Also included this month is a strip of Papier de Armenie (a strip of paper which has been soaked in benzoin resinoid). It can be burned to release it's rich aroma or used in a confined space to infuse a subtle note.  As ever, subscribers get a code for 10% off a full size bottle.

From Nishane we have Pasion Choco Extrait de Parfum (50ml - £110, 1ml - £5) (which we also received in August 2015's sample pack - this is only however the second duplicate of my subscription) - this is a gourmand scent with vanilla, chocolate and caramel. It has top notes of caramelised grapefruit, coffee and passionfruit with a heart of coriander, dark chocolate and orchid with a base of benzoin, patchouli, dark musk and vanilla. I quite like this one.

PG25: Indochine EdT (100ml - £117.50, 50ml - £81.50, 1ml - £2) the benzoin is paired with honey which brings syrupy sugar tones. Benzoin plays the spicy note. With top notes of cardamon and pepper, a heart of honey and wood apple with a base of benzoin. I love this one.

Arquiste Infanta En Flor EdP (100ml - £135, 1ml - £2) benzoin is used here to back up the flighter floral notes. With top notes of cistus essence, bergamot and immortelle with a heart of orange flower absolute, jasmine, Moroccan rose, and Spanish leather accord with a base of benzoin, cistus absolute, Venezuelan tonka bean and musk. I'm very fond of this one!

Etat Libre d'Orange Bijou Romantique EdP (100ml - £105, 50ml - £70) benzoin and patchouli work very well  together and are the backbone of this fragrance. With notes of bergamot, Italian lemon, ylang-ylang, coconut, vetiver, benzoin, vanilla and patchouli.

Grossmith Phul-Nana EdP (50ml - £145, 1ml - £5) I'm just not a fan of this brand (but I've got a friend who loves it). I find the scents too overpowering, powdery and heady. With top notes of bergamot, orange and neroli, a heart of geranium, ylang ylang and tuberose with a base of patchouli, benzoin, cedar, opoponax and tonka beans.

The final scent has Just Landed: PG27: Limanakia EdP (100ml - £117.50, 50ml - £81.50, 1ml - £2) is an animalic mineral with top notes of cumin, stone and wormwood, a heart of immortelle, lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, patchouli and monoi oil with a base of cashmerewood and labdanum.

What did you think of December's sample pack?

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