Bloom Perfumery: Yearly Sample Pack: November 2016: Exploring Cashmeran

My November Bloom Perfumery Sample Pack arrived the other day. This month the theme is Exploring Cashmeran.

"Cashmeran is a slightly unusual but incredibly distinctive ingredient that is widely used in perfumery - both for the way it smells and they way it exalts and affects a blend. Also called musk indanone, Cashmeran is a lot of the time referred to as blond woods by perfumers because it has a very velvetine and rich quality to it; but it also smells sharp, woody and clean. It's essentially a spicy musky woody note".

Grossmith Floral Veil EdP (50ml - £170, 1ml - £5) with top notes of cassis, green leaves and lemon, a heart of geranium, rose, tuberose, vanilla and ylang ylang with a base of amber, cashmeran and musk.

Praline de Santal by Parfumerie Generale EdP (100ml - £117.50, 50ml - £81.50, 1ml - £2) the cashmeran helps the hazelnut to sit at the top of the scent. With top notes of hazelnut, a heart of cedar and heliotrope with a base of cashmeran, musk and sandalwood.

Angela Ciampagna Ducalis EdP (100ml - £160, 50ml - £95, 1ml - £5) which is one of my favourites from this month's selection. It has top notes of nutmeg, geranium and salt accord, a heart of rose, may-lily, cyclamen, ylang ylang, acacia and cedarwood with a base of sandalwood, rosewood, leather, amber, musk and vanilla.

Parfumerie Generale's PG10.1 Bouquet Massai EdP (100ml - £117.50, 50ml - £81.50, 1ml - £2) cashmeran helps the floral notes fuse with the gourmand-ish fruitier notes. With notes of peony, magnolia, karo karounde, coffee, cashmeran, sandalwood, tolu balm and fruity notes. I like this one too.

From Olfactive Studio we have Lumiere Blanche EdP (100ml - £108, 50ml - £74, 1ml - £2) which is gorgeous! With woody notes and spices. With top notes of cardamon, cinnamon and star anise, a heart of almond, cashmere musks and iris with a base of cedar, sandalwood, tonka beans and white musk it cocoons and comforts. Love this one.

The final perfume this month is Just Landed: Arquiste ELLA EdP (100ml - £135, 1ml - £2) which is floral, leather and spicy. With notes of cannon ball tree flower, angelica root, carrot seed, Turkish rose, jasmine absolute, cardamon absolute, black buckwheat honey, ambergris, patchouli, civet, vetiver, cigarette smoke and chypre accord. This is a very heady scent which is growing on me!

What do you think of this month's picks?

Bloom Perfumery: Yearly Sample Pack: October 2016

My Bloom Perfumery October sample pack arrived yesterday. This month the focus is on #ExploringLabdanum. Labdanum is a rich brown gum resin that's sourced from the cistus shrubs of rockrose. It helps to anchor and extend the impact of more fleeting notes.

"A key ingredient in any amber based perfume, labdanum is a truly multifaceted thing. Both the spice and sweetness it's honeyed and still enriched with oriental elements. It smells truly exotic yet comfortingly familiar. It's leathery and yet woody at the same time conjuring up ideas of far flung luxury as much as it does dusty carpenter's workshops and bustling shipyards".

Bloom Perfumery have included a sample of labdanum absolute so it can help subscribers identify the ingredients wholly unique properties. The perfumes this month are:

Paradis Perdu by Frapin EdP (100ml - £98, 1ml - £2) - is aromatic and woody with top notes of bergamot, lemon, grapefruit and mandarin with green notes of basil, elemi and galbanum. Hay and labdanum combine with moss and rosewood.

Panorama by Olfactive Studio EdP (100ml - £108, 50ml - £74, 1ml - £2) - this is a very green perfume. The labdanum adds a spicy note. With top notes of bamboo shoots, bergamot, fig tree leaves, tonka bean and vanilla a heart of cardamon, galbanum, cut grass and violet leaf with a base of fir balsam, labdanum, musk, myrrh, patchouli, tonka bean and vanilla.

Signature Wild by Art de Parfum Extrait de Parfum (50ml - £88, 1ml - £2) - the labdanum is buried between the layers. It has a woody and slightly masculine edge. With notes of leather accord, orange blossom, cinnamon, cardamon, orange flower absolute, ciste labdanum, davana, peru balsam and vetiver.

Sable Marocain by Phaedon EdP (100ml - £95, 1ml - £2) - opens with Moroccan labdanum with a sweet cocoa note. Ginger and balsamic notes help to avoid too much sweetness. With notes of cocoa, copahu balm, gaiac wood, ginger, labdanum and vetiver.

Saffron Rose by Grossmith EdP (100ml - £295, 50ml - 195, 1ml - £5) - this is the perfume you don't want to like too much ouch that price! It is really lovely and one of my favourites this month. Labdanum is used alongside the oud, myrrh and castoreum which provides an animalic note which "makes the rose smell dirtier and more realistic".

The final sample this month is by one of my favourite perfume houses. Just Landed: Fathom V by BeauFort London EdP (50ml - £95, 1ml - £2) "The idea of this ’sea-change’ and the constant tidal flux of the sea is properly explored in Fathom V with the overdosed use of contrasting materials: salt and earth, fragrant herbs and mosses, pleasant floral notes and intense dark spices encompassing and outlining the push and pull of the oceanic torrents". 

It has top notes of juniper berry, tangerine, blackcurrant, green leaf and earth with a heart of thyme, lily, jasmine, ylang ylang, ginger, cumin, black pepper and mimosa with a base of patchouli, vetiver, moss, salt, frankincense, atlas cedar and amber. Rather in love with this one!

Are you liking the sound of any of the perfumes in this month's selection? 

Bloom Perfumery: Yearly Sample Pack: August 2016: Jasmine

My Bloom Perfumery August sample pack landed yesterday. This month the theme is Jasmine.

"A flower with several different scent facets, the jasmine can smell green and airy or it can feel heavier, more narcotic, indolic and animal. It's a material that's regarded as an essential component in modern perfumery, even though natural floral extracts are so rare and scarce nowadays that some cost more than the price of gold".

The first one I tried is Nishane's Hundred Silent Ways (50ml Extrait de Parfum - £120, 1ml - £5) which is a floral gourmand and simply stunning. It has top notes of Mandarin, Peach and Tuberose, a heart of Gardenia, Iris butter and Jasmine and a base of Sandalwood, Vanilla and Vetivert.

Just Landed: Phaedon's Sable & Soleil EdP (100ml - £95, 1.6ml - £2) is "an ode to a tropical Eden resplendent with sandy beaches, exotic flowers and crystal clear shimmering azure waters" (got me sold already!) With top notes of Lemon, a heart of Coconut milk, Geranium and Jasmine with a base of Sandalwood, Vanilla, Tonka beans and White Musk.

Jazmin Sarai's How you Love EdP (50ml - £72, 1.6ml - £2) which is inspired my Sade's "It's only love that gets you through" and has notes of Cardamon Absoute, Grapefruit, Jasmine Absolute, Rose oil, Beeswax Absolute, Sandalwood and Musk.

PG's Drama Nuui EdP (100ml - £117.50, 1.6ml - £2) is very floral with rich heady hues. With notes of French Jasmine, Gaiac wood, Musk, Petigrain, Sandalwood and spices.

Next up is Just Landed: Brocard's Modern Classic EdP which is very, very reasonably priced (100ml - £21, 1.6ml - 80p) which has notes of Pear, Praline, Blackcurrant, White Musk, Orange Blossom and Vanilla.

Finally, Grossmith's Shem-El-Nessim EdP (50ml - £170, 1.6ml - £5). This one is just not to my taste as I find it too heavy and a bit powdery for my liking. It has top notes of Bergamot and Neroli, a heart of Geranium, Rose, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang and Orris with base notes of Musk, Cedarwood, Heliotrope and Vanilla.

What's your favourite Jasmine scent?

Bloom Perfumery: Yearly Sample Pack: June 2016

This is my final pack from my Bloom Perfumery yearly subscription (but I recently signed up for another year as I love it so much!)

This month the samples are "exploring Ambroxan" which is "an isolated ingredient that perfumers often refer to as a wonder molecule. It's a natural ingredient which comes from clary sage".  "It's an ingredient that universally, almost everyone likes the scent of". "In a blend ambroxan extends fleeting ingredients whilst also acting as an olfactive magnifying glass, glazing over top notes and making them shine whilst also rounding out the overall punch of a perfume".

Bloom Perfumery have included a 1% solution of ambroxan to identify the molecule's unique and projective properties.

My favourite perfume this month is Wūlóng Chá by Nishane (50ml Extrait de Parfum £110, 1ml Extrait de Parfum £5) which has top notes of bergamot, mandarin, litsea and orange with a heart of nutmeg and oolong tea and base notes of fig tree fruit and musk. It's the perfect summer scent.

I'm also loving Etat Libre d'Orange's Bendelirious (50ml EdP £70) which is a fun loving scent with notes of champagne, cherry lollipop, iris absolute, leather, tonka beans, violet leaf absolute, grapefruit, musk and vetiver.

Phaedon Paris's Rue de Lilas (100ml EdT £69, 1.6ml £2) has just landed and has notes of lily-of-the-valley, opponax, rain drops, musk, palisander and white lilac.

Grossmith's Floral Veil (50ml EdP £170, 1.6ml £5) with top notes of cassis, green leaves and lemon with a heart of geranium, tuberose, ylang ylang, rose and vanilla and a base of amber, cashmeran and musk. 

I've loved all the Nishane perfumes I've tried via the subscription but unfortunately I found Rose Turca (50ml Extrait de Parfum £120, 1ml Extrait de Parfum £5) just a little powdery and heady for my tastes. It has top notes of Isparta rose essence and ylang ylang, a heart of Egyptian jasmine and Sardinian jasmine with a base of Isparta rose absolute and musk.

The final perfume this month is NEW IN: Paul Schütze Cirebon (50ml EdP £135, 1.6ml £2) and is a bold citrus. With notes of bergamot, cedar, orange blossom, sandalwood, bigarade orange, magnolia, petitgrain and vetiver. I kind of like this one.

See my reviews of the rest of the year:

2016: May, April, March, February, January 

2015: December, November, October, September, August, July

Bloom Perfumery: Yearly Sample Pack: March 2016

My March Bloom Perfumery Sample Pack arrived on Friday and this month to commemorate the first flowers of spring iris is a note used in all the scents.

"the scent of iris is derived from the root of the plant so the sensation of its smell can often be a little misleading when people think of it as a flower".

"Considered powdery and earthy, Iris also smells aqueous, as if it's bursting with a violet like freshness. On it's own it can smell like warm, sunned skin or as a natural musk, but in tandem with other ingredients it's effect is startlingly individual. It can inject a dry streak into a floral perfume or soften an oriental composition".

My absolute favourite this month is Nishane's Boszporousz Extrait de Parfum 1.2ml (50ml - £110, 1ml - £5). It has just landed at Bloom and is Exclusive and is simply gorgeous. It has top notes of cypress, galbanum, sage and seaweed with a heart of gardenia and jasmine and a base of amber, musk, oakmoss and patchouli. A pretty floral with salt, sage and seagrass notes reminiscent of the Bosphorous strait shores.

Next to capture my heart is PG's 21 Felanilla EdP 1.6ml (50ml - £81.50, 1.6ml - £2) which is a best seller at Bloom Perfumery. "This is vanilla for grown-ups" and has top notes of saffron, vanilla with a heart of hay and iris absolute and a base of amber.

The final four are Etat Libre d'Orange Benderelious EdP 1.6ml (50ml - £70) which has notes of champagne, cherry lollipop, grapefruit, iris absolu, iris butter, leather, musk tonka bean, vetiver and violet leaf absolute.

Exclusive to Bloom Perfumery .vero.profumo. Mito EdP 1.2ml (50ml - £138, 1.2ml - £5) with top notes of green leaves, a heart of champaca, magnolia grandiflora and tuberose with a base of galbanum and hyacinth

Grossmith's Diamond Jubilee Bouquet EdP 1.4ml (50ml - £195, 1.6ml - £5) which was created to celebrate Queen Elizabeth II's Diamond Jubilee. The heart is a powder iris.  It has top notes of lemon, lily of the valley, narcissus and orange with a heart of carnation, iris, jasmine, rose, vetiver and violet with a base of amber, hawthorn, tonka beans and vanilla.

New In The Merchant of Venice's Ottoman Amber EdP 1.6ml (100ml - £120, 1.6ml - £2) which has notes of labdanum, myrrh, oud accord, patchouli and vanilla.

What are your thoughts on this month's selection?

Bloom Perfumery: Yearly Sample Pack: September 2015

I'd forgotten that I was due my Bloom Perfumery September sample pack so it was a nice treat to receive it when I arrived home from work yesterday. This month the scents are perfect for the start of autumn - warm woods infused with vanilla, amber, frankincense, ginger and more. I actually love all the scents this month.

The pefume that stands out the most for me is one which is new in Beaufort London Coeur de Noir EdP (£95 - 50ml - £2 - 1.6ml) - it's a simply stunning perfume and unlike anything I own. From a new British Perfume House which draws inspiration from ships, sea battles, voyages and tattoos. It has top notes of ginger, ink and rum, heart notes of leather, paper and vanillin with base notes of cedar, tobacco and birch tar. It starts off very powerful and mellows to a smokey sexy scent. Love it!

Passion Boisée (Frapin) EdP £98 - 100ml - £2 - 1.6ml) is a warm and spicy scent with top notes of mandarin and nutmeg, a heart of cypress and rosewood with base notes of ambrette seed, sandalwood and vanilla. It appears quite subtle and perfect for autumnal days.

Eau de Madeleine (Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger) EdP £110 - 100ml - £2 - 1.6ml) a beautiful scent which has notes of frankincense, leather, sandalwood, vanilla and incense.

Hasu-no-Hana (Grossmith) EdP £185 - 50ml - £5 - 1.6ml) it's nice to be able to try a perfume I'd never be able to afford! This is a classic formula from 1888, an oriental chypre which is rich with flower, spice and wood notes. It has top notes of bergamot, bigarade orange with heart notes of iris, jasmine, rose and ylang ylang and base notes of oakmoss, patchouli, cedar, sandalwood, tonka bean and vetiver.

The Architects Club (Arquiste) EdP £135 - 100ml - £2 - 1.6ml) a delicious autumn amber with a note of Mexican vanilla, benzoin and resins and woods. It has notes of ambermax, amber, angelica root, bigarade orange, gaiac wood, juniper, lemon, oak and vanilla.

The final perfume this month is best selling PG18 Cadjméré (Parfumerie Generale) EdP £117.50 - 100ml - £2 - 1.6ml) which is comforting and gentle. A soft sandalwood with a hint of vanilla. With a top note of tangerine, a heart of cypress and rosewood and base notes of ambrette seed, sandalwood and vanilla.

I really love all the scents this month and I'm looking forward to trying them out. Do any of the perfumes included this month jump out at you?