Bloom Perfumery: Yearly Sample Pack: June 2017: Smell to Taste - Fruit

This is my final Bloom Perfumery sample pack over a two year period (sobs). This month the theme is Smell to Taste - Fruit.

"Fruit is mostly a fantasy in perfume as distilling something like apples, raspberries or mango is quite impossible (essentially one would get jam in the process). However, the aromachemical producers by now have a huge library of molecules that will smell fruity and recipes of how to mix them to create a certain fruit effect. These compositions are called 'smell-to-taste'. The current selection covers straightforward fruity perfumes and formulas where a fruity nuance has been used to present a natural raw material in some unusual way".

Pear:

Huitième Art Ciel d'Airain EdP (50ml - £88, 1ml - £2) is the one which jumped out at me first. The perfumer wants you to feel like being in an orchard before the rain, taking refuge under a pear tree. With notes of ambergris, olive tree twigs, pear tree bark and pear tree leaves.

Mango:

Again from Huitième Art is Manguier Metisse EdP (100ml - £115, 50ml - £88, 1ml - £2) is a gentle honeyed floral built around Frangipani. With notes of frangipani, mango tree bark and tea. It's lovely.

Coconut:

Olfactive Studio Still Life in Rio EdP (100ml - £124, 50ml - £84, 1ml - £2) - with a coconut water accord. With top notes of ginger, lemon, mandarin, yuzu and mint with a heart of black pepper, pink pepper and coconut milk with a base of copaiba balm, leather and rum. Love!

Wild Strawberry Jam:

PG Cruise Mojito Chypre EdP (100ml - £116, 50ml - £80, 1ml - £2) which we received in the very first sample pack in July '15. Think Strawberry Margarita built up with vetiver, patchouli and labdanum. With top notes of lime, mint, strawberry aldehyde and rum, a heart of patchouli, vetiver and labdanum and a base of vanilla and oakmoss. I can't remember liking this so much first time round! 

NEW IN: Nikkos-Oskol No 34 HYDRO which is a water based fragrant body mist. It's a honeyed fruit floral blend with top notes of grapefruit, raspberry, pear and lime with a heart of violet, rose, jasmine and lychee with a base of plum, white cedar and musk.

The only one I'm not so keen on this month is Ripe Morello Cherry - Brocard Modern Classic Noir EdP (£21 - 100ml, £17 - 50ml, 1ml - £2) which is reminiscent of black forest gateau. With top notes of almond, cherry and red berries with a heart of licorice and rose and a base of musk, patchouli and vanilla.

I'll be doing a round-up of my favourites from my two year subscription at a later date.

Bloom Perfumery: Yearly Sample Pack April 2017: Violets

I was very happy indeed to receive my Bloom Perfumery sample pack for April. (I loved last month's Green scents and February's Vanilla picks). This month's theme is violets.

Bloom Perfumery are "showcasing the use of violet leaf absolute, a natural material derived from the plant, as well as violet flower aroma interpretations: from bon-bon candied petals to aroma derived through the 18th century enfleurage technique".

There is one perfume we've had before in the pack from last June - Bendelirious EdP (50ml - £82) (violet leaf absolute) from Etat Libre d'Orange where two roots (iris and violet) are used to create the sweetest of leathers. With notes of champagne, cherry, cherry lollipop, grapefruit, iris absolu, iris butter, leather, musk, tonka beans, vetiver and violet leaf absolute.

I simply love the very gorgeous Violet Disguise EdP from Imaginary Authors (50ml - £90, 1ml - £2) (bon-bon violet flower interpretation) which is the scent of "violet flowers aroma as we know it from candied purple sweets and violet petal jam". "This is a versatile fragrance which will remind you of the simpler joys in life". With notes of plum, violet, dried fruits, balsam and amber.

From Zoologist there is Nightingale EdP (60ml - £135, 1ml - £3) (violets bouquet aroma) a "subtle linear floral beading sweet flowers one by one: violets, plum blossom and rose and stitching them onto a sensual sandalwood-ambegis canvas". With top notes of bergamot, lemon and saffron, a heart of japanese plum blossom, red rose and violet with a base of oud, patchouli, sandalwood, moss, frankincense, white musk, labdanum and ambergris.

Aleksandr EdP by Arquiste EdP (100ml - £135, 1ml - £2) (violet leaf absolute) "a witty reference to 19th century formula when dandies would use violet water to moisturize the skin. Violet leaf absolute smells green, leathery and a touch earthy on its own but in a formula can provide a perfect lasting deep background for lighter notes". With top notes of neroli, aldehydes, iced vodka accord and birch leaves, a heart of violet leaf, orris, cognac and leather with a base of fir balsam, birch tar, moss and animalic musk accord.

Sideshow by Gri Gri is New In EdP (can't see it online right now) and the "perfumes are inspired by some tattoo technique. Sideshow is based on the 'old-shool' anchors and mermaids, romantic, colourful and a bit kitch". The initial scent is surprisingly bubblegum (really!) with a heart of cotton candy and candy apple. Base notes are hyraceum, tolu balsam and leather.

The final scent this month is Queen of Spades by Brocard EdP (100ml - £21, 50ml - £17.50, 1ml - £2) (violet petals jam aroma) "sweet like violet petals jam, the fragrance has a plump floral core of magnolia, jasmin, lily-of-the-valley, violet and orchid" along with musk and woods.

Bloom Perfumery: Yearly Sample Pack: February 2017 - Vanilla Et Co

My February Bloom Perfumery sample pack arrived on Thursday and in February we were exploring Vanilla, it's alternatives and materials closely related to it.

I love that we are also sent raw material samples to be able to identify the different forms of Vanilla - Coumarin, Vanillin, Full on real Vanilla, Ethyl Maltol, Tonka Beans and Heliotropin.

There are 3 samples this month that I've had in other sample packs previously. Two which I wasn't keen on but one which I adore - TARDES by Carner EdP (£85 - 50ml) which I received in my very first sample pack in July '15 - see my thoughts on it HERE. I still love it, so it will be a purchase soon!

I like new in: Parfumerie Generale's L'Ombre Fauve EdP (£81.50 - 50ml) which is a re-introduced formula. It's an amber composition and naturally has vanilla in it. With top notes of red amber, a heart of civet chevrone with a base of precious woods. Also from the same house is PG21 Felanilla EdP (£81.50 - 50ml) which is made with two varieties of real vanilla and is absolutely beautiful. It has top notes of saffron and vanilla (Bourbon and Taihitian), a heart of hay and iris absolute with a base of amber.

The other two that have been in previous sample pack are Brocard's Modern Classic EdP which uses Ethyl maltol (£17 - 50ml) and has notes of pear, praline, blackcurrant, white musk, orange blossom, vanilla and ethyl maltol and Angela Ciampagna's Liquo EdP (£95 - 50ml) which has top notes of lavandin, violet and lemon with a heart of anise, licorice, straw and coumarin with a base of frankincense, vetiver and tonka beans.

Civet by Zoologist EdP (£125 - 60ml) is from a new brand at Bloom Perfumery. It has top notes of bergamot, black pepper, lemon, orange and tarragon with a heart of carnation, frangipani, heliotrope, hyacinth, linden, tuberose and ylang ylang with a base of civet, coffee, frankincense, labdanum, musk and vanillin.

The final perfume (there are 7 this month!) is Aphrodisia by Brocard EdP (£26 - 75ml) which has top notes of bergamot and cassis, a heart of jasmine, rosewood and ylang ylang with a base of heliotrope, heliotrophin, musk and vanilla.

What do you think of February's choices?

Bloom Perfumery: Yearly Sample Pack: September 2016

My Bloom Perfumery September sample pack arrived yesterday and this month it's #LucaTurinApproved - Perfume writer and co-author of the perfume lover's bible "Perfumes: The A-Z Guide" of which I have an early edition and which has given me hours and hours of reading pleasure.

Onto the perfumes this month which have all recently featured on Luca's blog:

Baruti Berlin in Winter (Indigo RMX) Extrait de Parfum (30ml - £80, 1ml - £5) which has notes of amber, cassis, coffee, frankincense, iris, lavender, leather, mastic, myrrh, plum, rose and whisky. I initially didn't like this scent but it's definitely growing on me. 

AEON 001 Extrait de Parfum (65ml - £200, 1.2ml - £10) which was the one which initially jumped out at me. With notes of tobacco and vetiver. Luca says "the best vetiver in a long time". It is blended with a distinct note of honey and white flowers with a touch of smoke and resin. Love!

Angela Ciampagna Liquo EdP (50ml - £95, 1.6ml - £5) which is really unusual and has a distinct liquorice aroma making it quite mouthwatering. With top notes of lavandin, violet and lemon with a heart of anise, licorice, straw and coumarin with a base of incense, vetiver and tonka beans. 

.vero.profumo. Mito EdP (50ml - £138, 1.2ml - £5) with top notes of green leaves, a heart of champaca, magnolia grandiflora and tuberose with a base of galbanum and hyacinth. It opens with a green freshness developing into a creamy heady floral with a woody base. Like this one a lot.

Nishane Sultan Vetiver Extrait de Parfum (50ml - £120, 1ml - £5) which is a mix of vetivers from all over the world - Java, Brazil, Haiti and Bourbon) and is heady and exotic. It has top notes of absinthe, Java vetiver, bergamot and Peruvian pepper a heart of Bourbon vetiver, neroli, Haiti vetiver and tonka beans with a base of amber, Brazil vetiver and leather. Huge fan of this perfume house, my favourite being Boszporusz.

Just landed is Brocard Queen of Spades Modern EdP 1.5ml (which I can't actually find online yet!) It has top notes of citruses and mango, a heart of jasmine, orange blossom and white rose and a base of patchouli, vanilla, marshmallow and white musk and is very fruity and sweetly edible.

What are your thoughts on this month's selection?

Bloom Perfumery: Yearly Sample Pack: August 2016: Jasmine

My Bloom Perfumery August sample pack landed yesterday. This month the theme is Jasmine.

"A flower with several different scent facets, the jasmine can smell green and airy or it can feel heavier, more narcotic, indolic and animal. It's a material that's regarded as an essential component in modern perfumery, even though natural floral extracts are so rare and scarce nowadays that some cost more than the price of gold".

The first one I tried is Nishane's Hundred Silent Ways (50ml Extrait de Parfum - £120, 1ml - £5) which is a floral gourmand and simply stunning. It has top notes of Mandarin, Peach and Tuberose, a heart of Gardenia, Iris butter and Jasmine and a base of Sandalwood, Vanilla and Vetivert.

Just Landed: Phaedon's Sable & Soleil EdP (100ml - £95, 1.6ml - £2) is "an ode to a tropical Eden resplendent with sandy beaches, exotic flowers and crystal clear shimmering azure waters" (got me sold already!) With top notes of Lemon, a heart of Coconut milk, Geranium and Jasmine with a base of Sandalwood, Vanilla, Tonka beans and White Musk.

Jazmin Sarai's How you Love EdP (50ml - £72, 1.6ml - £2) which is inspired my Sade's "It's only love that gets you through" and has notes of Cardamon Absoute, Grapefruit, Jasmine Absolute, Rose oil, Beeswax Absolute, Sandalwood and Musk.

PG's Drama Nuui EdP (100ml - £117.50, 1.6ml - £2) is very floral with rich heady hues. With notes of French Jasmine, Gaiac wood, Musk, Petigrain, Sandalwood and spices.

Next up is Just Landed: Brocard's Modern Classic EdP which is very, very reasonably priced (100ml - £21, 1.6ml - 80p) which has notes of Pear, Praline, Blackcurrant, White Musk, Orange Blossom and Vanilla.

Finally, Grossmith's Shem-El-Nessim EdP (50ml - £170, 1.6ml - £5). This one is just not to my taste as I find it too heavy and a bit powdery for my liking. It has top notes of Bergamot and Neroli, a heart of Geranium, Rose, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang and Orris with base notes of Musk, Cedarwood, Heliotrope and Vanilla.

What's your favourite Jasmine scent?